Sub driver AL III

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pmat
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Sub driver AL III

Post by pmat » Sat Dec 13, 2014 11:19 pm

Opinions on using the 10 inch sub rosa driver for AL III duty? I need to do two pair and want to keep the cost down.
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Re: Sub driver AL III

Post by hewlew1 » Sat Dec 13, 2014 11:40 pm

What is wrong with the stock drivers?
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Re: Sub driver AL III

Post by pmat » Sat Dec 13, 2014 11:46 pm

Well three of them are bad and need to be replaced. I've been using the speakers crossed over to a legacy audio sub which is sealed and has 212 inch drivers. I've become addicted to the power output which better matches the ribbons.
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Re: Sub driver AL III

Post by Toy Maker » Sun Dec 14, 2014 5:39 am

those drivers will not match up to the ribbons very well. way different power handeling, different impedance, different frequency curve.
you would be better off using a JL W-0 or a JL W-1 driver. W-3s are nice but more power hungry.

I would advise learning a little bit more about drivers and their differences before choosing one. There are huge differences between a woofer and a subwoofer. What you need is a woofer. The subrosa uses subwoofers.

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Re: Sub driver AL III

Post by radioeng2 » Sun Dec 14, 2014 8:12 am

When you mention keeping the cost down, what comes to mind is that putting new surrounds on to replace crumbled old foam is the most economical fix. Plus it''s the right drivers. 8) Depends on what's wrong....

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Re: Sub driver AL III

Post by pmat » Sun Dec 14, 2014 12:34 pm

I have spent some time studying it and thanks for the suggestions. I'm trying to avoid a mistake. When I play electronica or other bass heavy music the stock drivers begin to fart. I know that the suspensions are week due to age. And I have not listened to AL threes with new drivers. Judging from study, generalopinion is that the stock Woofers can't handle low bass or being pushed hard. The ribbons seem to have no problem. I was running the 1.5 on the ribbons and they sing at high-volume.maybe stock roofers are the best for lower volumes and could be supplemented with a sub woofer. I was trying to get the best performance out of a woofer while maintaining good musicality for the lighter fare. Having a large sub woofer next to these six-foot speakers is a bit much for a room. I thought these were a good match but I'm looking for alternatives.
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-aud ... m--295-460
The JL W0 are $119 and the W1 about $200. Will the W0 do the job with a 450 W output?
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Re: Sub driver AL III

Post by kingman » Sun Dec 14, 2014 4:20 pm

If they fart check the gaskets that seal them to the bottom of the cabinet. That's usually the culprit.
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Re: Sub driver AL III

Post by pmat » Sun Dec 14, 2014 4:51 pm

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Thanks Kingman. I have checked extensively. I have 4 drivers. Two fart and they both have seen a lot of action. the surrounds are intact with no holes but the foam is completely limp. Like as in super soft. One driver has a firm surround and works fine. One has firm surround but drags the VC. I have read a lot about woofer upgrades from JL, Infinity (two types of Perfect Tens), and others. It seems like no one lately has experimented with other solutions that I can find. I'm in process reading on this site and have exhausted the other site. I plan to go active on one pair with a modern driver. the other pair I want stock, and a third pair I want to build an OB servo section below a Carver Ribbon as a custom speaker. I have a minty set of early Silvers that I want to put six new woofers in and bring the rest up to the best level I can. It came with an ECU and sounds wonderful except that is FARTS too when I push them. They also have VERY LIMP peckers (surrounds). They have the older Yellow ribbons. I just love these speakers.
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Re: Sub driver AL III

Post by hewlew1 » Sun Dec 14, 2014 5:19 pm

I will tell you that I had a stock woofer which farted when it was pushed and when examined the surround was indeed limp as you have described. As soon as I replaced the surround that was no longer an issue.
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Re: Sub driver AL III

Post by 67ih4x4x4 » Mon Dec 15, 2014 8:40 pm

My AL III's woofers are bad also, I made a sealed sub with 2 pe 12 inch drivers and a 1000w sub amp. I love it and it works well with the AL's to my ear.

Parts http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-aud ... m--295-445
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-aud ... r--300-809
and 1 inch mdf

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Re: Sub driver AL III

Post by pmat » Wed Dec 17, 2014 1:56 pm

67ih4x4x4 wrote:My AL III's woofers are bad also, I made a sealed sub with 2 pe 12 inch drivers and a 1000w sub amp. I love it and it works well with the AL's to my ear.

Parts http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-aud ... m--295-445
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-aud ... r--300-809
and 1 inch mdf
Thanks, I already have a killer sub.
Question ?? Do other JL drivers work well also? I found a couple of used W3's for a good price. Will they play high enough and correctly?
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Re: Sub driver AL III

Post by TNRabbit » Wed Dec 17, 2014 3:05 pm

pmat wrote:
67ih4x4x4 wrote:My AL III's woofers are bad also, I made a sealed sub with 2 pe 12 inch drivers and a 1000w sub amp. I love it and it works well with the AL's to my ear.

Parts http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-aud ... m--295-445
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-aud ... r--300-809
and 1 inch mdf
Thanks, I already have a killer sub.
Question ?? Do other JL drivers work well also? I found a couple of used W3's for a good price. Will they play high enough and correctly?
I went to JL Audio's website and could not find any specifications on the frequency response.
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Re: Sub driver AL III

Post by Toy Maker » Wed Dec 17, 2014 3:15 pm

The W3 will play high enough... but requires more power then the original drivers.
I think they said up to 500 Hz easy...
If you are bi-amping, no problem... if you are using the original crossover... you might need to add a resistor to the ribbon side the balance them back out.
I don't have the TS parameters of the original AL-3 drivers...
I really need to get one of those T/S readers when they are back in stock. !!!
http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-aud ... m--390-806

Check out the 6" W3 subs I built below. Anyone that heard them can attest to just how good they sound and how low and smooth they are.

JL does not publish frequency curves anymore... I called and asked why a while back.
They said because the drivers can do about anything if the box is built correctly.

Figure out the AL-3 box volume, and port dia. and length and call their tech line.
They will do basic modeling for you. I'd do it... but I'm kind of tight on time for the next few days.

Ask for: Eric Cole
JL Audio Technical support
954-443-1100 ( ext 2159 )
ecole@jlaudio.com

I think I'd start with the W0 just because it uses a larger volume box.
W0 - http://www.jlaudio.com/10w0v3-4-car-aud ... vers-92165
W1 - http://www.jlaudio.com/10w1v3-4-car-aud ... vers-92081



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Re: Sub driver AL III

Post by pmat » Wed Dec 17, 2014 3:35 pm

Thank you for the contacts! It's time to get serious about them. I will be biamping with a recapped M1.5 on the bottom. That may be ok for the W3s.....?.....
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Re: Sub driver AL III

Post by Toy Maker » Wed Dec 17, 2014 4:04 pm

Should be fine !!!

I'd still check with JL on the existing box volume... they may suggest you modify the port...
I have a set at home... I'll run some quick numbers tonight 8)

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