need a visual model for CAL's

After failing to locate intact Carver Amazing Loudspeakers, original or platinums, locally for purchase, I am in the process of acquiring all the pieces. When I have all the speakers and crossovers in hand, then I'll be thinking about the enclosures. I've never seen these in person, so I'm hoping to find pictures online to use as a model. Does anybody know of any photos online of Amazings, especially front and rear shots with the grill covers off? Otherwise, I'm just shooting in the dark.

Thanks!

Maybe someone has a pair on here who take all the proper measurements for you.

Failing a link to a webpage with pics, if somebody could take a couple digital shots of coverless CAL's, that would be fantastic. I just want to see how and where everything is mounted.

From what I've read the exact dimensions and mounting positions are quite critical to the sound, so both pictures and dimensions would be important to have. Eyeballing the dimensions will probably result in something that will sound pretty bad IMO.

After failing to locate intact Carver Amazing Loudspeakers, original or platinums, locally for purchase, I am in the process of acquiring all the pieces. When I have all the speakers and crossovers in hand, then I'll be thinking about the enclosures. I've never seen these in person, so I'm hoping to find pictures online to use as a model. Does anybody know of any photos online of Amazings, especially front and rear shots with the grill covers off? Otherwise, I'm just shooting in the dark.

Thanks!

mine are currently sitting open.
i will try to get pics up later tonight.
both front and rear baffles are off.

as for online.
ive never come across pics of the Originals in this way.
IMO the only reason you would open them is to repair somethin.

mine are currently sitting open.
i will try to get pics up later tonight.
both front and rear baffles are off.

as for online.
ive never come across pics of the Originals in this way.
IMO the only reason you would open them is to repair somethin.

Excellent! If you could do that, it would be much appreciated.

hey! no problem...ok 1 problem.
the battery pack in my sony cam is flat. i just put it on charge.
if i dont get the pics up here tonight, i will get them uploaded tomorrow.
sorry for the delay guys .
cheers!
kris

Check the CarverFest photo threads. They have pics of one of my Plats nekkid during surgury. I have dimensions of the barn door somewhere and will send you a copy if I can find them.

Check the CarverFest photo threads. They have pics of one of my Plats nekkid during surgury. I have dimensions of the barn door somewhere and will send you a copy if I can find them.

Hmmmmm, speaker porn... I tried exploring some of the Fest threads, but didn't run across those particular shots. Anyway, any pics and/or dimension & measurements anyone can provide will be of immense help.

Oh, by the way, is using solid oak a good idea? Someone I was talking to, don't remember if it was this forum or another, thought that using MDF then covering with an oak veneer would be better, as the solid wood might provide unwanted resonances. Thoughts?

For Amazings (Plats or Silvers) you need a panel that is as free of resonnances as possible, therefore solid oak would be a no-no unless you made it out of butcher block which would stagger all the resonnances. for ALS-III type speakers, the main panel could be made of solid wood but the woofer box would need to be made of particle board rather than MDF covered with veneer or clad with 1/4" to 1/2" solid wood to avoid resonnance. I mentionned particle board because, while it is less robust than MDF, it has much less resonnance than MDF, especially where speaker cabinets are concerned. Those woofers do a whole lot of shaking!

A good choice for Amazing panels would be 1" thick particle board clad with 1/2" solid oak or 1.5" particle board covered with oak veneer. All depends on your woodworking skills, but making the rounded edges on the panels would be easier with solid oak cladding and using a 1/4" rounding over router bit than wrapping veneer around the rounded elges, especially on the angled side. One recommendation I could make would be to have the panels cut at hour home improvement store on their large panel cutting saw since you will get an exact cut identical on both panels.

If you decide to go the butcher block route, IKEA has 5 foot solid oak butcher block countertops in the desired 1.5" thickness that could do the trick and are reasonably priced. Plus the butcher block look would definitely be a different look from every other pair of Amazings out there!

Good luck and keep us posted

Couldn't any resonance problems be solved by placing a gasket between the woofer & ribbon surrounds and the wood panel?

That's not the way resonance works...you're thinking vibration, which is a physical connection. Resonance is usually linked by sound waves. Think about when you're in the shower and you sing that "certain" note that reverberates in the space...similar concept.

sorry for the delay man.
the worst storm in 10 years roled through here the last few days.
went to bed on sat. nothing on the ground.
woke up sunday morning with no power and close to 2' of snow to get rid of.
anywho.
without further delay!

and crossover

and front pannel


and lots a snow!



hope this helps.
and good luck

in addition to the materials mentioned above(nice touch with the butcher block Obi! now youve got me thinkin ), give a look to baltic birch press board.
in the past ive had very good results using this. only problem is the edges are rough, however the graining is superb(requires little to no sanding) and i find the resonance to be very low.

also.
mdf is always best used for car audio bass bins.
it is very robust, but even with lots of dampening and bracing it still hums like crazy.

AA77, its the staggering of the glue joints that distributes and dissipates the resonnances; the same thing with good plywood because of the 90 degree angle of the plies. For really good plywood (which some speaker manufaturers in Europe use) look at Russian (or Baltic) plywood which is made with very thin layers (double to triple the normal number of plies)of wood veneers laminated together. It is extremely stable, non resonant, and since it is made only with hardwood veneers, the surface finish (usually) is exceptionally good. I use it for fine furniture projects when solid hardwood is not available and the edges can be routed and finished to a great looking striped finish with little to no sanding or any filling at all. It is so good that I regularly do tongue and groove, mortised, mitered and dovetail joints with it that are as solid as solid hardwood.

HDF would also be a good choice if it weren't so hard to work with and heavy as well as difficult to find.