Help Me To Restore and Modify My Carver Amazing Platinum

Now, I have finally owned a pair of the Platinum Amazing.

The one I got has very nice sub drivers with almost new looking surrounds and cones. I don't know whether they are just re-foamed or a replacement woofers by the previous owners. But both speakers has the subs in the same condition so I think whatever was done, it's been done to all 8 woofers.

The Ribbons seems great with no buzzing that I am aware of when listening to the Piano music at 0db.

However, I have a few things I like to take care of for my Amazings so they are in their best possible condition.

1. I would like to repaint / touch up the Gloss Black Paint for the scratches on the wood.

2. I need to replace the terminal cups so I thought I would just get the plexiglass cut out to the size and solder a good quality new binding posts (the original ones sucks).

3. Is it necessary to replace the stock wires with preferrably better cables? What is the recommended wires you guys use? Is it better to use Pure Silver Wires instead of OFC? Will the 12AWG a good size or smaller or bigger AWG wire is recommended?

4. Crossover Modifications Recommended? Is it better to use External Active Crossover and Disconnect (bypass) the Internal Xover in the Amazing? I think people are saying that the ribbon is under stress at very loud volume for contents below 150-200Hz? I could bring up the crossover point of the woofers to 20-200Hz and let the ribbon plays from 200Hz and above? I don't know if woofers are capable to play up to 200Hz or otherwise, I have a hole in Frequency Response and woofers would have higher distortion.

Or is it better to replace components such as caps, resistors and inductors on the Original Xover for the improved sound? If so, what is the usual brand you guys recommend? Anyone has the Schematics for the Platinum Crossover. I think I could add an attenuator for the tweeter during modification. Perhaps, I could use this opportunity to upgrade my Platinum to MKIV?

Thanks again for the input and a Very Happy New Year to All!

Best Regards,
James

I've heard of people bringing up the crossover point to 200 Hz. In fact, I think that's what the Clearview crossover did. You could leave the ribbon crossover intact and disconnect the woofers from the crossover, use an active crossover at 200 Hz and let the ribbon passive handle the ribbon anomalies above 200 Hz.

F1Nut did some mods to his Amazings; perhaps he'll chime in with details. I know it involved Cardas 11.3 gauge wiring and damping material on the woofers....

-yeap; vampire/ cardas/ wbt or thereabouts for binders [1bill]

-i used i think???, 14gu copper...can not remember the 'strand' count...sir F1 used the cardas 11.5
-[remember that; replace woofs have only 1spade ea., to solder to]

-dynomat door kit for the woofer spokes[40.oo]

-the manual says hi quality- hi gloss- polyurethane enamel[drys in 4-6hrs]...unclear if that means latex or oil base, as ive seen extreme hi gloss latex polyurethanes[clears]...or an oil base w/ some super-sonic drying agent

-i believe it was an automotives coating someone on here posted[bmw perhaps]


-congrats man

use two part auto paint for finishing em, that is what polyurethane enamel is. you finish them just like you would a car paint job, primmer, color sanding and all, then buff them out just like it is your prised Hot rod.

-yeap; vampire/ cardas/ wbt or thereabouts for binders [1bill]

-i used i think???, 14gu copper...can not remember the 'strand' count...sir F1 used the cardas 11.5
-[remember that; replace woofs have only 1spade ea., to solder to]

-dynomat door kit for the woofer spokes[40.oo]

-the manual says hi quality- hi gloss- polyurethane enamel[drys in 4-6hrs]...unclear if that means latex or oil base, as ive seen extreme hi gloss latex polyurethanes[clears]...or an oil base w/ some super-sonic drying agent

-i believe it was an automotives coating someone on here posted[bmw perhaps]


-congrats man