Carver AL 3 refinishing

I recently acquired a set of black Carver AL-3s, and am about to set out refinishing them. They have a wonderful oak veneer with a black factory overspray. Can I remove the 4' tweeters easily, and what application would be the easiest to strip the black paint effectively? I use Readystrip on furniture I refinish, but that may not be best for this application. Thanks in advance!
And yes, everything works well!
Dave

If I look at mine, that looks like black stain and then an oil coating (maybe tung oil). I'm not sure how much success you'll have getting the black out without taking a lot of wood. Remember, those are baffles and are integral to the way the speakers sound. You don't want to mess with the geometry too much.

That said, I think Gary (TNRabbit) has a set of whitewashed oak ones.

OK, let me ask this a different way. Are the ribbons hardwired to the crossover? Also, has anyone refinished the diffuser panels?
I am planning on refinishing the diffuser panels in place, and want to remove the ribbon boxes to avoid splattering/ruining the mylar surfaces.

Welcome sheltie dave.

Welcome, Dave~

You'll want to remove the "wings" for the work, but as BillD said, don't take too much off them in the process.

The ribbon is hard-wired so you'll have to make sure they're supported when you remove the wings. I'd contact DaveS or Toy Maker to verify a safe way to removed the wooden panels without damaging the ribbons, as they are quite sensitive to shock.

What color were you planning to stain them?

Incidentally, mine were whitewashed over the original natural oak stain (more of a pickled finish, now)~

Thanks for the welcome, guys.
I thought I needed to pull the ribbon box first, and that looks to be the case. I have a couple chairs that are just the right height to do a pull and set aside setup.
I'll look closer on how to remove the diffuser wings...all I want to do is strip the black paint and then restain them an old english oak, so they will match our red oak floors. I have seen other similar examples, and the wife has said keeping something like that will be no problem.
I'll tape off the non-veneered adjacent areas, and go at it with either denatured alcohol(slow) or Redi-Strip(fast.) I just would like to hear of any similar efforts, if this has been done by others.

stereo 88 004.JPG

If the black color was applied by staining, you might have a better chance to lighten them by trying wood bleach after removal of any surface sealers/coatings.

http://antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/Bleach.htm

I'm not lightening the black - I'm removing it - all of it from the veneered oak. It looks like the big L bracket is the only thing holding the vertical panel in place. Correct?

No, you're not understanding correctly. If the black color is a stain that was applied directly to the wood, stripping will most likely not remove all of the black color. You will have to bleach the wood after stripping and cleaning to get all the black out. Contary to the article recommending two part bleach for removing color (stain), Clorox is actually the better choice. Do it outdoors in bright sunlight, which will help the Clorox do it's job. Let the wood dry for a few days after and sand smooth before staining/finishing.

One other thing, taping off and stripper are not two things that work together. You should remove anything attached to the wood before stripping.

I'd go one better than Clorox; use Oxygen Bleach ($$$) because chlorine bleach will damage the wood. I use pure oxygen bleach (cut with water) when cleaning decks... it works great & won't harm the wood OR any plants around the deck.

Gary, that product appears to be the same or very close to Oxalic acid, which in my experience will not remove black dye stain or black pigmented stain from wood. Clorox bleach will and other than raising the grain will not harm the wood.

In that case, I say he should sand them down really fine then paint them Ferrari Yellow~

I say live with black.

No, you're not understanding correctly. If the black color is a stain that was applied directly to the wood, stripping will most likely not remove all of the black color. You will have to bleach the wood after stripping and cleaning to get all the black out. Contary to the article recommending two part bleach for removing color (stain), Clorox is actually the better choice. Do it outdoors in bright sunlight, which will help the Clorox do it's job. Let the wood dry for a few days after and sand smooth before staining/finishing.

One other thing, taping off and stripper are not two things that work together. You should remove anything attached to the wood before stripping.