CF LS Remote Control

8th Anual CarverFest. September 10th - 24th
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CF LS Remote Control

Post by radioeng2 » Sun Sep 28, 2014 7:37 pm

Right at the end of the time we had at the fest, we got to fooling with the remote control installation.

First one we got to, we found that it wouldn't turn the knob and shaft. ](*,)

Remote controls are made to allow you to turn from the face using the knob...or to use the remote control. This means internally, they have to allow the motor to have the ability to slip so if you grab the knob and turn, you have some way for the motor to be disengaged. I'd assume this is as simple as a small band between pulleys.

On this first one, we simply took the shaft off, substituted a short shaft at the face with an external knob to look normal. Then you're forced to rely on the remote control to work.

After that one, we went to the trouble of redoing the audio wiring from the selector output to allow the motorized pot to be mounted on the face. This defeats the whole idea and effort of minimizing wiring length and exposes the longer wire to possible greater noise. With care on the wiring, this doesn't seem to be too great of a risk versus allowing audio level control via both the knob manually, and using the remote control.

Then we hit another problem. On the next two, we didn't get remote control function at all. This was evidenced by the PCB mounted LED not flashing to indicate any function, plus the power on/off and volume control not working. If controlling volume, you can normally hear the motor trying to move by a small buzzing sound.

We ran out of time to do any more looking into this at that time. We checked between all three available remote control wands and couldn't get any function on those last two.

So now with the time...lets look at a little trouble shooting....

First...remember this RC power supply has 120 volts AC going to it. Unplug before you start!

OK...first we should check the wiring between units. We have a small 4 conductor cable going from one side of the PS module going to the sensor/control unit. Then on the control unit, we have a small two pin connector and a red and black cable going to the motor. That's it...other than the audio going in and out next to the motorized pot. Next to the audio wires soldering pads, we have empty plastic 4 pin sockets for audio in/out...if we had those connectors which we don't. So those stay empty.

Now, lets confirm power wiring to the power supply PCB. The PS board is mounted upside down on the metal crossing rail towards the back of the unit. But you can probably tell peaking around the edge of it, that there is two sets of little blue blocks for wires to attach. One is used as power in, the other (via a relay click heard at power on), has power coming back out. This is to be used, if you choose to, as a way to remotely turn on power to your unit. If wiring is to the correct place, the wires should be on the outer two of the three positions on the side that looks like this....


Note how the white and black wire are on the side where the traces are with the one kind of "pointing" at the black wire. And you can see the solder pads for where the three screw down tie points are on the other side. It should be possible to see that the wires go to those outer two on that side. If it's wired to the other side, then the PS would have to be unmounted for a moment and with wires moved. Silk screened on the front of the board right next to the blue blocks is an "N" for the white neutral wire and a "L" for the black line voltage wire.

So if the interconnect wiring is right, and we have power wired to the PS correctly, then next is to see if the RC appears to power up. This means plugging in the AC to the back and then being aware you have a live circuit.

If power is to the unit, the LED on the control unit should light red at power up. Pressing the little button on the board, the relay should be heard to click and the LED should change to green and flash a few times until staying on green. After which, pressing the volume up or down button should cause the LED to again flash some to indicate activity.

If we don't get this far, the unit doesn't light up the LED at all, then we'd want to see if the power supply appears to be working and if we have the interconnect wiring harness to the right connectors and fully seated at each end.

Here is where to check the power supply. You need a volt meter, set to meter DC voltage and on a scale appropriate to the following voltages....probably the same one on most meters.

First...remember we have voltages present! DO NOT REST YOUR FINGERS ON SOMETHING TO STEADY YOUR HAND. At least not on the power supply PCB. We want to carefully set the probes on and NOT let them slide over and touch two points at the same time! Touching two things with the probe for a moment may cause a short and blow a fuse or worse. But, with care, it's an easy enough measurement.

First, touch the black, ground side probe on here...


Then with that probe on that bigger point, away from other solder points, turn your concentration to touching your red probe on this point for a moment to take a voltage reading....


If there is power to the unit and the power supply portion is working, you get 18 volts DC at that point going into a voltage regulator.

Then next, we want to check the regulator is working and giving us 5 volts DC for the rest of the circuitry. The 5 volts will appear a couple of places as marked here...


Either point is ok to check, which ever feels safer to touch without slipping across to another point.

Showing 5v dc there and we should have voltage then thru the cable to the control board.

After these checks, then the more likely thing (if we have voltages to the control board), is we may have damaged the IR sensor in the effort of of pulling it and extending wires. Or miswired it.

I believe I wired it out like indicated here....


If you can't read that, the center is ground, right is power and left side is the sensor out. I used left to right, blue, black and red to match this.

Note that the sensor has a bubble on one face which is the active side. While facing it, the left leg should be on the left side of the three traces where the jumpers are soldered. I used three colors of wire to help see which is which. Center being ground and black.

If the other things check out, I could probably get a sensor, resolder wires to it and ship them out. This would require touching an iron on the PCB to pull off each wire and then reattaching a new. This just to see if that's the problem. I would agree with the vendor, that the sensor is likely to be our issue as long as we have power to where it's suppose to be.

I was there "At the Fest!" Hope you were too!

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Re: CF LS Remote Control

Post by Shortcake » Sun Sep 28, 2014 9:12 pm

Mark, I can see you sitting there with you GYNO light as I read this!

I want a small project for myself next year so you can sit with me and we can have some fun and I can learn a thing or two. Just bring valium. Not kidding. I think you could teach anyone - and well, I seriously would love to learn SOMETHING interesting.
“Music gives a soul to the universe, wings to the mind, flight to the imagination and life to everything.” ― Plato

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