Tools needed fo speaker build?

[Don]

Ok James or Robert Chime in very soon. We know we need a soldering gun (weapon in my case). Give everyone an idea of what else. Nut driver, needle nose, soldering station, ext. cord. solder (what size and kind) etc.

Newbies need to know. I am one in that class. Give specifics please?

[Robert R]

You've been reading my mind - the list is a work in progress that I just started last night. Until I actually build one I can't offer a definitive list, so I hate to guess at this point, because if I leave something out and people go by this preliminary list they could come up short of something.
So far as I know there is nothing the least bit exotic required. Besides soldering materials, a medium Phillips screwdriver, long-nosed pliers, wire strippers and side cutters are a pretty good bet. But then I never leave home without all that.

I or somebody will post a more official list in a week or two.

For solder, any decent rosin core would do. Best not to have super-thin gauge, as there is no need for that. This is not micro-soldering by any means. You won't need miles of solder, either.
Eutectic solder (67%Sn /33%Pb) is my preference. By definition it melts the easiest, and it makes it almost impossible to do a "cold" joint. Or if you already have some 2% Silver (66/32/2) that's fine, too. Silver in the mix adds some extra mechanical strength, but is a bit harder to work with, isn't necessary in this application, costs more, and certainly won't make it sound a bit better. 60/40 solder would work perfectly OK as well.

A work light, or even your flashlight would be handy.
A thick cloth or piece of carpet to pad your work table is a good idea - you will be working with metal that has been finished, so scratches are best avoided.

And don't forget your best readin' specs.

RobertR

[radioeng2]

One thing to think about when constructing speaker system is that a screwdriver shoved through a speaker cone is, in polite quarters, a bad thing. Polite quarters cause it tends to cause bad words. Like Harry type bad.

This is why drivers are often mounted with hex head screws. Much tougher to slip in disasterous ways. But there is things you can do to help yourself no matter what...

-Work with a good balance personally and have the speaker in a solid position so it doesn't move.

-Use a hand in a protective manner so that you can deflect a slip if it should occur.

-Use the right tool for the job.

As in with a Phillips, use a #2 if it fits in firmly and if not and it's smaller then go to the #1. You'd be surprised how often even a rather small looking head screw is actually cut for the #2. If you've experienced the screwdriver turning in the head and stripping the edge off the teeth of the cuts, then you were probably using the wrong screwdriver. There is a difference, know what kind of tip you have on a Phillips and always use the right one!

Seriously, as simple as it sounds, using the right tool for the job and placing yourself and the device well (and getting it lit up well) gets you really far along towards success.

Something it'd be nice to know in advance is if we're soldering onto the drivers or using those cursed faston connectors. OK..they aren't that bad but... If we're crimping on faston's, I probably could make sure I round up about 4 or so decent crimpers so we avoid the flat mash 'em style ones.

And if we're soldering onto the tabs of the drivers....heat control!! Can't stress enough that too much heat can be a be problem there. You can cause the tensile lead going down to the driver (of a cone driver) to come off! You're soldering on one side of a tab and that lead is on the other end of it. Something over on that side to act as a heatsink is a really good if not manditory idea. Doesn't have to be a formal fancy heatsink clip....just something used gently to drain away heat. Gently cause those tensile leads are highly flexible by design and fragile.

The officials will be along to clear this stuff up...but thought I'd throw out a few things that come from experience as thought starters.

Mark

[Robert R]

James just got home and I asked about the screws and a few other things. For starters, there will be no problem with Phillips screws - because there are not going to be any! It will all be male hex, of a metric size (or sizes) to be named later. So maybe a set of metric Allen wrenches will be the thing to have - have to wait a bit to get the final size requirements. It's pretty tiny, for sure.

He also spoke of things that might be needed for emergencies: small metal file, duct tape, electrical tape (Scotch 33+ is my favorite), wire nuts (small gray size), JB Weld, superglue, silicone poop (the thin type, sold for leaky windshield repair), Krylon High Gloss black. Some of those items could be bought right in Bryson, but I'm not sure about a lot of them.
It seems senseless for everybody to bring all of those things, so maybe somebody can figure out how to pool some resources and have it all handy for whomever needs something. Yeah, I know - Socialism.

RR