TeslaAudio - Sonorous / Speaker Kit Instructions

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TeslaAudio - Sonorous / Speaker Kit Instructions

Post by Toy Maker » Thu Sep 17, 2015 3:21 pm

Speaker Kit Instructions:
All written instructions will be at the bottom of the page below the videos.


Speaker Part 1 Unboxing


Speaker Part 2 Crossover Build


Speaker Part 3


Speaker Part 4


Speaker Part 5


Speaker Part 6


Speaker Part 7


Speaker Part 8





Stands Part 1


Stands Part 2


Stands Part 3


Stands Part 4

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Re: Speaker Kit Instructions

Post by Toy Maker » Sat Sep 19, 2015 4:34 pm

1. IDENTIFY ALL THE PARTS in your kit, and be sure nothing is missing.

Speaker Kit Parts List: (per speaker set)
(2) Aluminum speaker chassis
(2) Top caps
(2) Bottom caps
(8) End-cap brackets
(8) 3.5” Mid drivers
(2) Ribbon drivers
(2) Pieces of foil tape
(2) bags Polyfill
(1) tube black silicone

Crossover Components: (2x per speaker set)
(8) 220 ohm resistors
(1) 16 ohm resistor
(1) .47uh coil
(1) 3.3uf capacitor
(1) .47uf capacitor
(1) .22uf capacitor
(1) micro male XLR connector
(1) set of binding posts
(5’) ea. Red Yellow, black 18ga wire
(4) silicone feet
(1) crossover plate
(1) foam backer for crossover
(3”) heat shrink

Screws:
(24) 3mm x 10mm button head screws
(8) 3mm x 12mm button head screws
(4) 3mm x 4mm socket cap screws
(6) 4mm x 10mm button head screws



Speaker Stands: (optional) (2x per speaker set)

(2) aluminum stand extrusions
(2) aluminum base plates
(2) aluminum top plates
(4) ¼-20 x 1” flathead screws
(2) 5mm x 18mm button head screws
(1) female micro XLR connector
(51”) ea. Red, black 18 ga. Wire
(5’) nylon braiding
(3”) 3/8” heatshrink
(4) felt pads



Needed assembly tools

Driver Sizes

2mm Hex Drive / Woofers, Top Bottom caps
2.5mm Hex Drive / Ribbon, Crossover
3mm Hex Drive / Mounting speakers to stands (if applicable)
#2 Phillips Drive / Stand Top & Bottom plates (if Applicable)

Drill
10mm (13/32") Drill Bit for binding posts

Wrenches

14mm - (9/16") wrench or adjustable wrench for XLR hex nut
11mm - (7/16") wrench or adjustable wrench for binding post hex nut

Small Hand Tools

18ga wire cutters/strippers
Scissors for heat-shrink
Heat-gun or lighter for heat-shrink

------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Step By-Step Kit Construction


1. IDENTIFY ALL THE PARTS in your Carverfest Speaker kit, and be sure nothing is missing. Use the above parts list and the pictures/diagrams posted on the forum by James. If you follow the stepwise procedure presented here, you need do no soldering inside the chassis at all. BTW, when we say "solder" something, that includes any necessary stripping, plus any needed use of pliers to make a good mechanical connection first, and the clipping off of excess leads afterward.

Don't cut your wire too short. The plan is to have enough wire so that when the speaker is finished all five drivers can be removed and laid on a bench without unsoldering any wires. The given wire lengths allow for about 3/8" of strip-and-wrap at each end, though in many cases you can strip it less than that.
Early versions of the kits were packed with just three colors of wire but these directions call for five colors. Blue and Violet wire was available at the Fest, though it is possible to substitute yellow or red for both. The shipped kits have had the blue and violet wire added. Just nine pieces of wire are used in the speaker, and two more in the stands. The designer opted to not use spade lugs due to their increased possibility of driver damage, and overall reliability considerations.

The large rectangular chassis opening for the ribbon is in the front, and the end where this opening is closer to the edge is the top. We'll define the side on your left as you face the front as the left side.

2. BUILD THE CROSSOVER. If you get all this right, the rest is mostly pretty easy.
You've already identified the parts. Start with the coil. It has two leads coming from the bottom side. Before inserting the coil into the board, remove the two pieces of tape (white, with part number from around its perimeter, and yellow, across the leads); then insert the coil into the the textured side of the circuit board. All nine of the crossover parts can be installed either way - there are no + or - ends. A preferred way is to install them so that the values can be read without removing the part.
Refer to the pictures online. The coil goes into the hole nearest the center of the board, and the remaining lead goes into the lone hole nearest the edge, as shown. That edge is to be the lower side of the crossover. On the bottom of the circuit board, bend the two coil leads toward each other, right up flush with the board.

Place the 16 ohm resistor atop the coil and solder both resistor leads to the upper part of the nearest coil lead, just above where it goes into the board. This puts the two parts in parallel. Take care to not short these resistor connections to the adjacent insulated coil winding. Use a bit of the heat-shrink insulation as needed. This is perhaps the trickiest step in the whole project, so don't rush it. Some of the resistors seem to have been produced with shorter leads than others, and you may want to extend yours with a bit of extra solid wire, just to be sure there is no lead touching the insulated coil turns.

Insert the rest of the parts - four more resistors and three capacitors, as per the pictures online. Bend the leads as shown in the picture of the bottom of the board, and solder them, making sure to catch each lead with solder. Clip off all excess bits of leads. Keep the bottom connections as flat as possible, lest you have clearance problems when board is installed - there is just 1/8 inch to the back of the chassis.

Refer to the picture of the crossover bottom, where the wires come through. Add an 8" red wire to the coil terminal that is toward the center of the board; add a 9" blue wire to the other coil terminal, the one nearer the board's edge. Add a 9" yellow wire to the junction point of the 3.3 μf capacitor and the 0.47 μf one. Crimp each wire and solder them in place. These 3 wires will be connected later.

The red wire will be the + input, to be fed from the amplifier via the XLR plug in the bottom. The blue wire is the + output to the side drivers, and the yellow wire is the + feed to the ribbon tweeter.
All the black wires, to be installed later, will be the common (-) return.

3. INSTALL FINISHED CROSSOVER in the chassis, with the coil side toward the bottom. Push the insulating pad onto the four mounting points first, then screw the board in over it, with the four 3mm x 4mm screws. You might find it easiest to start these screws by thumb and forefinger power. If you have trouble lining up the holes, the plastic can be reamed out a little. The board will flex as you tighten it down - that's normal. Be sure the wires are free to reach their final destinations. The red can go down through the bottom opening for now. The blue wire goes up and out through the top-left side driver hole. Yellow comes up and out through the front, as it will eventually go to top of the ribbon.

4. INSTALLING THE BINDING POSTS:
If you opted for these, add two extra wires, one black and one red, to parallel the input connections from the XLR plug.

5. INSTALLING THE SIDE DRIVERS: Do the left side first.
Place this first driver on your padded work table, surround side down. There should be nothing magnetic nearby, or the driver might grab it. Copper wire and solder are non-magnetic, but your tools and the screws aren't. Leave the protective plastic cap in place for now.

The blue wire from the crossover should be coming through the top left speaker opening (left as you face the front, where the large ribbon opening is). Prepare another 13" piece of blue wire, then twist and solder its end together with the free end of the already attached blue wire. Set the chassis down close enough to the driver for the wires to reach, and solder both blue wires, where they join, to the Positive (wide) terminal of that driver. The two driver terminals are at opposite sides of the drivers, and they are only marked by their size: the positive terminal has a much broader female spade lug than the negative. So remember, Narrow for Negative.

Solder one end of a 9" violet wire to the Negative terminal (the narrower lug) of that same driver, which is to become your top-left. Now remove the protective plastic cap and install the driver by passing the loose end of this violet wire, followed by its attached driver and its two blue wires, all into the top-left speaker opening, routing the unattached blue wire right on through and out the top opening on the right side, and the violet wire down and then back out through the bottom-left opening. There are extra wide groves at top and bottom of center to allow the easy passage of the terminals. Orient the driver so that the (+) terminal, with the blue wires, is centered toward the top of the cabinet, and the violet wire is on the opposite end, down near the middle of the cabinet. Line up the screw-holes, and attach the speaker with just four of the shorter 3mm screws (2mm hex wrench) - leave the topmost two screw holes unused for now. Snug in these four bottom-most screws, but not tight at this point.

Now unpack a second side-driver and lay it next to the bottom left cabinet opening. Prepare three black wires - one 12", one 10" and one 6". Twist and solder one end of each together and solder that
threesome junction to the driver's negative terminal - Narrow lug - of this second side-driver. Pass all three wire's loose ends in through the lower left driver opening. Run the longest black wire's loose end back out through the front opening - this will go to the ribbon. Pass the next longest wire on through and out the bottom right (opposite) opening. The shortest black wire's loose end goes in, down, and out through the chassis bottom, where it will eventually connect to the XLR connector; associate it with the red wire coming from the crossover.
There should already be a violet wire coming from the lower-left opening - solder the unconnected end of this violet wire to this second driver's positive (+) end [that's right - in this case a negative goes to a positive!]. Then mount this driver just as you did the first one, but with violet wire up toward the center and black wires at the bottom of the cabinet. Loosely twist the excess violet wire and tuck it in along the side between the drivers. It needs to be out of the way to allow the Fiberfill to be installed, later on. Be sure not to allow any wire to enter the slot in back of the drivers, where it could cause a buzz problem! As you proceed, twist and tuck any excess wire lengths in a similar manner.

The extra wire length has been designed to make it possible to remove any one of the five drivers without cutting any wires. The tiny bit of extra resistance this and the amplifier connecting wire adds is all figured into the exact parts values employed in the crossovers.


Again remove the plastic cap (it could scratch the cabinet if you try to leave it on), and secure the driver, again with just four of the same screws (the shorter but more plentiful 3mm type), just snug, leaving the two mounting holes nearest the bottom end unused. These pairs of unused holes will be used later for the end-cap mounting brackets.

These two drivers are now wired in series. The two drivers on the other side are to be wired in the same way; then each side's series pair will be in parallel with the other side. This series/parallel arrangement keeps the overall final impedance a very reasonable 7-8 ohms, while keeping the outputs of all four drivers equal.

Get out the other two drivers and do the Right Side, the same way. The blue wire coming from the top-right opening gets soldered to the + terminal of the top-right driver. Solder a 9" violet wire to the negative (-) terminal. Push the free end of this violet wire through the top right opening and down to the lower right opening hole and out, and mount the top-right driver with four screws, 3mm short ones, same as before: blue wire up and violet wire down, empty holes on top.

There should be a 10" black wire coming out through the remaining (bottom-right) opening. Solder this wire to the negative terminal of the last side driver, and solder the violet wire from the top-right driver to the Positive (+) terminal of this last driver. As on the other side, arrange the bottom driver with the violet wire up toward the cabinet center, and the black wire down, toward the bottom end, and install this last side- driver with four more screws, leaving two empty screw holes on the bottom.

You are getting there! Note - by now the unit is pretty heavy, so be careful - no guarantees against stupidity are implied. Double check that from the top you see just broad driver terminals, and from the bottom just narrow ones. Blue wires show on top, two violet ones are lurking in between, and only black wires attach at the bottom.
Take a last look through the front at the inside, and check all wire locations, making sure no part of any wire can get into position to touch the backs of any of the four speaker cones.
At this point you can quick-test the side drivers by hooking a 9 volt battery to the red and black wires that are coming out of the bottom of the cabinet. With the red board hooked to plus and black to minus. all four cones should jump outward. If they don't, you have made an error. Once this test is passed, it's time to close things up!

6. INSTALLING THE RIBBON TWEETER: Unpack your ribbon driver. Note that, as with the side drivers, the Negative terminal is the Narrow one, with the slimmer one the plus. As with the side drivers, take precautions regarding magnetic objects getting near the ribbon driver.

Observe the online picture of the ribbon with the metallic sealing tape attached, and prepare this ribbon likewise. Note that the foil, which is a good conductor, needs to be cut away in the area near the terminals, where you will attach wires next. No shorts wanted here. Carefully wrap the entire perimeter of the ribbon with the provided foil tape. The ribbons are NOT air-tight, and need to be sealed from the pressure of the woofers.
IF YOU DO NOT DO THIS STEP YOU VERY WELL MAY DAMAGE THE RIBBON DRIVERS. They cost $45.00 ea. to replace.

You should have four wire ends still unconnected - one yellow, coming from the crossover board, two black wires, from the lower left side-driver, plus a red wire from the crossover. Run the yellow and the longer black wires out through the large front opening. Solder them to their respective terminals on the ribbon driver - yellow to positive (+) terminal and black to negative (narrow). The remaining pair of wires - one black from the ribbon negative, and one red from the crossover - will attach to the XLR input on the bottom cover, in step 10 - they should come out through the bottom of the chassis for now.

Add fiber-fill to fill the interior space between the four drivers (more will be added at the ends when those are installed) and then fit the ribbon into the front opening and secure it with the six 4mm screws (2.5mm driver). You may use all the fiber-fill, or have just a bit left over. It's OK to tear it into smaller pieces - it works fine that way.

7. INSTALL THE FLANGES: Before adding the Fiber-fill to the top and bottom, it's best to first install the flanges, lest some Fiber-fill gets pinned under them and causes the mounting holes to not line up. Fit one top end-cap mounting flange bracket in place. There are two geometries to these brackets - half are cut off-center one way, the other half the opposite way. The correct one in each case will fit the curve of the driver neatly, and allow the flange to be straight and level. Secure them with two of the eight extra-long 3mm bolts, right through the until-now-unused two holes in each top side driver. Snug down both screws gently, to be tightened after the caps bolts are started.

Now install the opposite geometry bracket on the other side, and in the same manner use the last four extra-long 3mm screws to install both bottom flange brackets, with the two remaining wires running out through them and out the bottom. Again, just "snug" the driver bolts for now.

8. INSTALLING THE TOP CHASSIS CAP: The tops and bottoms are not quite square, due to their having to fit the angle of the end openings. By comparing the two covers face to face you can determine which way is shorter in each. It's subtle - just a few thousandths, but definitely different. The longer reach is to go front-to-back, and the shorter way goes side-to-side in the chassis. The bottom cover is impossible to get wrong, if you consider how it will attach to the stands.
Add more fiber-fill to the top cavity. Tuck it in so that none spills over the edges where it would get pinned under the top cover. Apply a small amount of the black RTV sealer to the edge of the top cover, where it will mate with the top of the chassis. Cover the edge completely with it, but use as little as possible to do so. [The supplied amount is ridiculously excessive - you will have most of the tube left over at project's end]. Now fit the top cover into place, press it in all the way, and wipe off any excess RTV right away (paper napkin is good for this). The fit is quite precise - it has to be - air leakage would not be good here.
The flange holes should line up with the mounting screw holes in the end-cap plate. It might be best at this point if all 12 driver screws are just a little loose, until the four cover screws are started. Whatever it takes, be sure the screws line up so you don't cross-thread the bolts!! They should go in smoothly and quite easily - no forcing required. Now tighten all 12 driver bolts and then the 4 cover bolts, but don't go crazy and over tighten them - you're not torquing down a cylinder head. This is not a test of strength, but of judgment. Remember, and Allen wrench has more leverage than a driver. Far better that a screw vibrate loose some day than to strip or bust one now!

9. INSTALL THE MALE XLR SOCKET into its opening in the bottom cover, with the nut provided, 3 pins facing outward (downward). Snug down the nut with a 14mm (or 7/16") wrench.

10. FINAL WIRING: Before adding the bottom cover plate, the remaining two unconnected wires must be soldered into the XLR socket. This socket's ground pin (pin 3) is not used. Slip about 3/4" of heat shrink insulation onto each wire first. The Red wire, from crossover [or from the red speaker binding post, if you did posts] should be soldered to pin 2 of the socket, and the remaining Black wire, from the bottom-left side-driver, gets soldered to pin 1. There are tiny numbers inside the XLR socket, or consult the diagram for pin locations. Be sure you account for the reversal of position when the unit is turned over - easy to get it backwards if you aren't careful. If you get these wires backwards the speaker will be out of phase with other units, your sub, etc. - not good, whether you have two channels or a whole bunch. Be careful with this soldering - keep the red and black wires well apart to avoid shorts. "Cook" the heat shrink with your (clean!) soldering iron or a heat gun.

There should be no left-over wires at this point - every bit of wiring is finished. The extra wire lengths were designed to make it possible to remove any one of the five drivers without cutting any wires. Any tiny bit of extra resistance this and the amplifier connecting wire adds is all figured into the exact resistor values employed in the crossovers.

11. INSTALLING THE BOTTOM CHASSIS CAP: just as was done with the top cap, add more fiber-fill, tuck it inside, apply a little RTV sealer around the edge of the bottom cover, and fit it (with its socket and attached wires) into place, and tighten securely with the last 4 of the 3mm buttonhead screws. Then tighten all the bottom driver screws, as done on the top half previously.

And that's it - she's done! Later there may be grills available, and perhaps some overload protection and/or even a crossover tweak or two, but that's it for now.

To play it and to hear it properly you need to put a stand together. The stands are pretty simple - except for getting the wires into the nylon sheath. See James's video for that. It is not necessary to twist the wires together, unless that helps you do the insertion.



The Stands

Upright Support Column
Base, and four round stick-on footpads
Flange, for the top
Screws - four larger ones go into the support columns and two smaller black ones secure the speaker to the flange.
XLR Female Socket, with mounting hardware.
Red and Black wire leads
Nylon braiding to sheath the wires, so they can't buzz in the stands from vibration.
Heat Shrink insulation


Push the two wires, one red, one black, through the nylon sheath. You will probably have more sheath than needed to cover the wires - cut off any excess. The XLR plug comes apart with a simple push of any small tool into the end where the pins are visible. Push the heat shrink sleeve over one end of the sheathed wire and attach the female XLR plug to that end of the wires (black to pin #1, red to #2). It's pretty crowded, but try to fit in some of the small heat-shrink sleeving onto at least one of the two leads, just for safety. Remember, if this plug shorts out, that's your power amp looking at about zero ohms. Discard the black compression fitting and use the blue one that's included. It's normal for it to be something of a struggle to get the plug threaded together. For more on inserting the wires into the nylon and preparation of the XLR plug, refer to James's video instructions.

At this point, plug the wire assembly into the speaker and give it a quick test it by touching the unattached ends of the wires to a battery (9 volt is simplest, both for hooking up and for seeing the results). All four drivers should move outward when the battery + terminal is connected to the red wire, and the - terminal to the black wire. Any other results indicate a wiring error (or a dead battery).

Drop the XLM plug into and out through your stand leg from bottom to top - the bottom end is the one with the two side holes for the input posts. Most builders like to arrange the stands so that one channel has the posts on one side, and the other has them on the other - it's your choice how you do this.

Screw the top bracket (countersunk 1/4" bolts) to the top end of the post, with the XLM plug coming out through it. Tape the plug in place while you finish the bottom end, so it doesn't fall back inside the post, but leave as much wire length as you can available for the next step.

Install your binding posts, upper one first. The holes are pre-drilled, but the inside edges are pretty jagged, so be careful not to cut yourself. A bit of work inside with the right file, knife, or whatever should help here.
Take the red post apart (leave the black one together for now, in case you forget how they are arranged), and put one plastic flat washer, then the hex-nut over the red wire. Grab the wire with long-nosed pliers, bend the end a bit as needed, and run it out through the upper hole in the side of the tower. Add the other flat washer and the plastic shoulder washer and metal retainer washer over the wire, and then solder the wire to the terminal on the end of the metal plug body. Tin the terminal surface first -remove the main retaining nut during this operation and hold the metal with pliers - it will get quite hot before you can tin the terminal. After the wire is soldered, allow the metal to cool until you can touch it, then put the washers, etc. into place and, using gravity as your aid, position the inside washer and start the hex-nut, inside the post. Spin it on by hand, and final-tighten by turning the whole assembly - back-twist it a half-turn first so you don't over-twist the wire, then tighten.
The black wire is attached the same way, but it's a lot easier, being closer to the opening, and you now being a practiced expert.

Now attach the stand bottom, with the remaining two 1/4" screws. You may opt to install the four padded feet to the bottom, if you are using these on a bare floor. Screw-in feet or spikes can be employed for various types of carpeting - that's up to the kit builder.

Now you can set the stand upright, with the XLR plug coming out the top. The four little black
rubber stick-on "feet" should be stuck around the mounting plate at this point, so that they will cushion the bottom of the speaker. Now plug the XLR plug into the speaker, then set the speaker in the center of the stand, line up the bolt holes and screw the last two bolts, up and in, to hold it securely.

Hook up an amp and try some music. She's done.

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Re: Speaker Kit Instructions

Post by Toy Maker » Sat Sep 26, 2015 9:16 pm

Crossover Layout
crossover layout.jpg
crossover layout.jpg (51.9 KiB) Viewed 5194 times
Crossover Front View
Crossover front.jpg
Crossover front.jpg (163.17 KiB) Viewed 5194 times
Crossover Back View
Crossover back.jpg
Crossover back.jpg (70.08 KiB) Viewed 5194 times
Ribbon Back View
ribbon back.jpg
ribbon back.jpg (150.32 KiB) Viewed 5194 times
Crossover Schematic
speaker schematic.jpg
speaker schematic.jpg (43.73 KiB) Viewed 5194 times

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Re: Speaker Kit Instructions

Post by pindrop » Sat Sep 26, 2015 11:39 pm

Incredible...James you and the family have gone so far beyond the call of duty, wow. Turn your phones and computers off and take a well deserved vacation man. Thank you all! And thanks for the olive branch.
Kennett

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Re: Speaker Kit Instructions

Post by Toy Maker » Sun Sep 27, 2015 12:04 am

35gb of videos to upload is going to take FOREVER at DSL speed... easily 2-4 hours per video. ](*,) ](*,) ](*,) ](*,) ](*,) ](*,)

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Re: TeslaAudio - Sonorous / Speaker Kit Instructions

Post by Toy Maker » Mon Sep 28, 2015 1:11 pm

Finally Done... after 3 DAYS of uploading. ](*,) ](*,) ](*,)

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Re: TeslaAudio - Sonorous / Speaker Kit Instructions

Post by helicopterpilotdoug » Tue Sep 29, 2015 7:38 am

=D> =D> =D> =D> =D> James, you have outdone yourself on this project. Outstanding job on every aspect! =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>
THANK YOU!!!!!!
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Re: TeslaAudio - Sonorous / Speaker Kit Instructions

Post by jldeni » Tue Sep 29, 2015 8:18 am

helicopterpilotdoug wrote:=D> =D> =D> =D> =D> James, you have outdone yourself on this project. Outstanding job on every aspect! =D> =D> =D> =D> =D>
THANK YOU!!!!!!
*5* +1 on that! *5*

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Re: TeslaAudio - Sonorous / Speaker Kit Instructions

Post by BarryG » Tue Sep 29, 2015 9:30 am

Thanks James, This is a lot of fun to build! They sound wonderful, LOL. Now my daughter who is visiting wants a pair!
Your hard work is very much appreciated!

BarryG
Carver C-11 (BillD modified by Dennis Miller), Carver SD/A-390t, Carver C-9, Carver M-1.0t MKII Opt. 2, Carver M-500t MKII (RichP’s final MKII before retirement), Carver TFM-45, TEAC DAC, Tube Buffer (MusicFidelity Clone), Sony Blu-Ray Player, Technics SL-7 turntable with Technics 310MC moving coil cartridge, Polk SDA1B’s (upgraded and modded by me), Carver ALS (Original upgraded), Interconnects by Doug, Speaker Wires by Doug, Salamander Archetype Equipment rack X2.

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Re: TeslaAudio - Sonorous / Speaker Kit Instructions

Post by packratt » Sun Mar 06, 2016 3:54 pm

Was going to try assembling these when I was down with my brother this coming weekend.

I thought the cases were going to be dimpled but not drilled for the rear binding posts.

Unpacked everything to take the cases down to the shop and drill and there were no markings or reference in the instructions on where to put the holes.

Where should I drill the holes? As tight as they are for space I don't want to start poking holes in the case.

Thanks

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Re: TeslaAudio - Sonorous / Speaker Kit Instructions

Post by Don » Mon Mar 07, 2016 8:54 am

packratt wrote:Was going to try assembling these when I was down with my brother this coming weekend.

I thought the cases were going to be dimpled but not drilled for the rear binding posts.

Unpacked everything to take the cases down to the shop and drill and there were no markings or reference in the instructions on where to put the holes.

Where should I drill the holes? As tight as they are for space I don't want to start poking holes in the case.

Thanks

I know most of us used the mini XLR's out of the bottom for our speaker connections. There may be a couple who did not. Did anybody mount for rear binding posts on the back that can help Packratt out as to where to place them? :-k

Harry, did Frankie go with the mini XLR's on the bottom or rear binding posts? Do yo recall? How about Markie?

Packratt, if no answer from any members where to locate, I would PM (Toymaker) James. I am sure he can give you an idea where to drill out for binding posts.
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Re: TeslaAudio - Sonorous / Speaker Kit Instructions

Post by radioeng2 » Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:35 am

This is the best I can think to do....

Width...
Image

Height....
Image
I was there "At the Fest!" Hope you were too!

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Re: TeslaAudio - Sonorous / Speaker Kit Instructions

Post by helicopterpilotdoug » Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:53 am

The binding posts I installed were centered 1 1/2" from the bottom of the enclosure. I used Cardas CCGG s binding posts and they are on 3/4" centers, so drilled the holes to accommodate that. Measure everything out and use a center punch. Put a piece of wood inside the enclosure and us it as a backing when you do this. I clamped a short piece of 2 X 4 in there which worked well for center punching and for drilling the holes. Here are a couple of photos showing where I put them.
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Last edited by helicopterpilotdoug on Mon Mar 07, 2016 10:00 am, edited 2 times in total.
Sunfire: Theater Grand IV, Cinema Grand Signature.
Carver: TFM-45, PST-24 Cassette, Extra Carver Gear: CT-6, C-11 (S/N 00001).
Polk Audio: Mains SRS 2.1TL, Center CSiA6, Surrounds FXiA6 and FXiA4, Sub DSW MicroPro 1000, Extra Speakers SDA 2A, SDA 2Btl, Monitor 10A.
Turntable: Dual CS 714Q
Bluray/SACD: Oppo BDP 83SE
CD: Sony 330 300 Disk changer

http://www.douglasconnection.com

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helicopterpilotdoug
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Re: TeslaAudio - Sonorous / Speaker Kit Instructions

Post by helicopterpilotdoug » Mon Mar 07, 2016 9:56 am

LOL, Mark you beat me to it!! :lol: You posted yours while I was doing my post. BTW, you have good taste in rulers :D
Sunfire: Theater Grand IV, Cinema Grand Signature.
Carver: TFM-45, PST-24 Cassette, Extra Carver Gear: CT-6, C-11 (S/N 00001).
Polk Audio: Mains SRS 2.1TL, Center CSiA6, Surrounds FXiA6 and FXiA4, Sub DSW MicroPro 1000, Extra Speakers SDA 2A, SDA 2Btl, Monitor 10A.
Turntable: Dual CS 714Q
Bluray/SACD: Oppo BDP 83SE
CD: Sony 330 300 Disk changer

http://www.douglasconnection.com

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Don
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Re: TeslaAudio - Sonorous / Speaker Kit Instructions

Post by Don » Mon Mar 07, 2016 11:03 am

Thanks both Markie and Doug for the quick response. =D> Not to shabby! :lol:
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