Bananas or spades....

So I'm guessing that not all bananas are created equal.... anyone have links to something reasonably priced or at least has a good bang for the buck! What about the locking bananas that have been mentioned, how does that work?

When I made my cables, I used the banana's from blue jeans cable. They were priced right, and seem to be well built. They do tighten down well, and seem to be holding the connection tight. Have not noticed any difference between using them and bare wire. Scroll down a little to see them.
http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/speaker/index.htm

I purchased another set of Furutech FP-202 locking banana's, from Soniccraft when they had their 20% off sale, to use when I make a new set of cables. I bought the Rhodium finished ones. Have not made those cables yet, so can't say anything about then except they appear to be of very high quality.
http://www.soniccraft.com/products/conn ... _fp202.htm

Good luck with your search for banana connector's. There are a lot of good choices out there, and a lot of chinese crap too!

Locking banannas work by using a small rod inside the plug, which expands it when tightened.

"They call it mellow yellow" Bananas have always worked for me but I don't really like the way they plug into the non-Signature series Sunfire amplifiers, they only go in about half way.

When I first saw the title of this thread, I was really confused. New card suit? Monkey jokes about blacks?

I don't really like the way they................ only go in about half way.

Yes, halfway in is EXTREMELY unsatisfying~

Yes, halfway in is EXTREMELY unsatisfying~

I hooked up some new speakers yesterday.
I used 4 bananas, 2 spades, and two bare wire.

I used that choice because that is what I had to work with.
I had more spades, but mine are so thick they don't fit in to everything.

What speakers did you get??? C'mon- spill the beans OO!

On my JM labs and the vandersteen 2ce sig, they both only take spade / bare wire only ( bi)

The sda's Ihave bananas on.

I hooked up some new speakers yesterday.
I used 4 bananas, 2 spades, and two bare wire.

I used that choice because that is what I had to work with.
I had more spades, but mine are so thick they don't fit in to everything.

What speakers did you get??? C'mon- spill the beans OO!

I looked around for the Plats for a year or so mainly just to fit in with the crowd here. I had no luck and was about ready to buy the ML ESL Motion speakers.

I recently got a pair of these instead: http://www.definitivetech.com/products/products.aspx?path=Speakers%20By%20Series|Mythos%20Series&productid=Mythos%20ST%20SuperTower

To me they sound good. I have and have had a lot of speakers, but none like this. I think they are a good example of speaker science improving over the years, as well as materials.

The true test of speakers (and systems) for me is not just to play loud, but to play at low levels accurately.

These are in a large room. If I took you in blind folded to the middle, I doubt you could point to the speakers as I have them about 20 foot apart and the sound stage is huge, room for the entire orchestra to have a seat.

I was intending to buy ML ELS Motion and a better sub than my Polk MicroPro 1000. I got a deal on these Def Tecs, and at least for me, have no need of a sub now at all. I have the Polk hooked in, but since this is just for music, it is mostly dead. So you could factor not needing a sub into the cost. You do have to run a power cord to each speaker.

These are tall enough for the high and mids to be above pool table height, and the low end below that is not a sonic problem. The are heavy speakers, so finding their place in the room is no fun.

I am very happy with these after a couple weeks. It is hard now for me to think I could have made a better choice. It is also good to know these would also be happy if I ever acquire a tube amp which might be lower power since on my budget Bob's Black Beauties are out -

You can NEVER have it all in one system, so everyone must eventually make choices, and that means choosing priorities.
Anyone who says otherwise is either very ignorant or lying. - Arthur Salvatore



Dimensions | Metric :51-1/2" H x 9-1/2" D x 6-3/4" W | 130.8 x 24.1 x 17.1 cm
Height with Base | Metric :53" | 134.6 cm
Base Dimensions | Metric :11-1/2" W x 15-5/8" D | 29.2 x 36.5 cm
Driver Complement :One 1" pure aluminum dome tweeter; Two 5-1/4" BDSS midrange drivers; One 6" x 10" long-throw racetrack subwoofer pressure coupled to two 6" x 10" long-throw racetrack radiators.
Frequency Response :14 Hz – 30 kHz
Impedance :Compatible with 8 Ohms outputs
Sensitivity :93 dB
Recommended Associated Amplifier Power :20 – 350 watts
A/V Receiver Crossover Setting :Large; Full Bandwidth
Internal Amplifier Power :300 watts
Auto On / Off :Signal Sensing (US) | Signal Sensing and Switched (International)
Power Requirements :110 volts Alternating Current (US) | 220 volts Alternating Current (International)
Inputs :One pair of 5 way binding posts; One LFE input (optional)
Fuse :3.2 amp 250 volt Slo Blo (US) | 2 amp 250 volt Slo Blo (International)
Enclosure :Aircraft grade extruded aluminum
Available Finishes :Gloss Black
Base :Granite
Accessories :Plastic foot tippers; Isolation spikes
Packaging :One to a carton
Weight | Metric :80 lbs | 36.3 kg
Warranty :5 Years; 3 Years for Amplifiers

I never bothered to test theory. I like the ease of bananas and I am happy with my system.