TFM-75 serial#00001

You can get what is commonly referred to as a "Y" splitter. Audioquest makes some good ones that won't break the bank and sound decent. Or you could get a Velodyne SMS-1 and go all out.

Oh, just make sure you get the male/female ends correct on the splitter. It's vaguely important.

Here ya' go. This would be the correct one for your application... http://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-splitt ... B000GUSQJG

I recently picked up a Samson S1000 that was powering a pair of SVS 20-39s which led me to do a little research. They offer an amp similar in output to the 75 for $550 shipped, brand new, looks like a great sub amp!

http://www.zzounds.com/item--SAMSX3200

Features

- Professional High Power, Class H, Rail-switching Amplifier
- 750 Watts per side @ 8 Ohms
- 1100 Watts per side @ 4 Ohms
- Dual Variable-speed Fan Cooling
- Signal, Peak, and Protection Circuit Indicators
- 5-way Binding Post and Speakon Speaker Outputs
- XLR and TRS Input Connections
- Dual Rack Space Design

PT2400, brother of the tfm75

If your going to build a sub, maybe you should consider a plate amp.
You get a lot of power and built in EQ as well as the other goodies needed to tune a room.
I built a couple of dual subs using Dayton 12" drivers and OAudio 500w bash amps
http://www.oaudio.com/500W_SUBAMP.html
To play with my arrays.....they are a nice combo



There are a ton of kits available.
A step up would be the Servo subs from Rythmik Audio

http://www.rythmikaudio.com/products.html

I have a couple of these on each side in open baffle 2 ch set up.



If you have DIY skills, the world gets a lot smaller.
The ones I have shown are just what I choose.....could afford.
With a little research on the net you can build really kick ass subs.

This site is freakin awesome! Alright I doubt I can find or afford another 75 so yall recommend me another amp. Preferably something cheap and powerful...LOL

Im thinking about building a sub box so recommend me some subs also.

JL Audio subwoofers.

Did Kingman sell his 2400 yet? It's like NEW.

Im not saying too much yet except that you would not believe what serial number is on it

We know; there's a thread on it from when he bought them.

You got him to give up his #001 PT-2400?

Congrats! You now have enough power to light up Yankee stadium!!

You got him to give up his #001 PT-2400?

Congrats! You now have enough power to light up Yankee stadium!!

Congrats!! Hope you have a couple of dedicated 20 amp circuits to feed those monsters!

You got him to give up his #001 PT-2400?

Congrats! You now have enough power to light up Yankee stadium!!

Congrats!! Hope you have a couple of dedicated 20 amp circuits to feed those monsters!

How about FOUR dedicated 20-amp circuits~

Congrats to Eric!!! I figured these 2 superamps deserve each other. Eric, if you ever decide to sell them give me 1'st shot.

I'd like to compare pre- & post-installation electric bills~

My listening room will be in the basement pretty close to the main breaker box, shouldnt be too big a problem to get four 20-amp dedicated circuits over there. I bet we could dim the house lights with everything cranked up...LOL

Yeah, it could be like the lights keep time with the music!!

JL Audio subs come highly reviewed. The most important thing about building your own sub is to make sure the box matches the speaker. There's a lot of programs out there to help with the design and if you get it right you're in for a real treat! I've literally seen / heard $30 MTX subs knock the crap out of $300+ drivers no shit.

I was trying to find a program a friend suggested awhile back, winspro? or something like that, I'll find out from him later and let you know. If you input the t/s parameters you can graph out the response of the cabinet, slot ports are suppose to be the best. You can really fine tune the output with a good program and get the most out of it and see visually the response curve and total output, pretty cool.