"It doesn't matter which speaker lead ( + or -) goes on which amp post as long as both speakers are wired the same."
Yes, that's basically how I feel about it. However, if it does not matter, why would they not just say that (instead of clearly stating to connect the (+) speaker wire to the red RIGHT speaker binding post and the (-) speaker wire to the red LEFT speaker binding post). I did this (+ to red right terminal and - to red left terminal) even though the diagram has it shown the opposite way (I disagree with your logic: easier to draw it wrong then state it wrong...and if stated wrong (and harmful) someone would have corrected this error a long time ago...).
Anyway, the sound is not demonstrably any better (so far) than with just the single TFM-42 (or 45) amp and probably not as good as with the m1.0t mkII opt2...but I will listen for a while before finalizing but pretty sure I won't leave it in this mono bridged mode...basically don't need the extra power/loudness and the sound is not "wow! that's so much better"...Thanks, Frankie! - Ed
Family room: 300 disk changer with PS Audio Digital Link III DAC; Technics SL-1100A TT. QED Quenx1 IC's from DAC & TT to Adcom GTP-602 preamp/Tuner. AudioQuest King Cobra IC's from preamp to M1.0t mk-II opt2. QED Silver Spirals 4M wires to EPI 1000’s.
Living room: AudioQuest Black Mamba 8M IC's from family room preamp to Barcus-Berry 2002R Sonic Maximizer to GlowPower Zyxt IC's to Sunfire 300x2 to Nordost 6M bi-source wires to AOS 28" MDF spherical speakers using six 8" woofers and eight 1" dome tweeters symm. arranged around the surface.
SS system: CX-995V DVD to AV-705x 5 channel amp (center/rears) & M1.0t mk-II opt2(fronts).
Garage: TLM-3600 CDP to MXR150 Receiver (pre) to TFM-42 to EPI 400 speakers.