How many watts per channel do you run with?

I've never blown a tweeter or any driver for that fact. I don't understand how people blow these things? In case you didn't know the NS-1000's have a reputation for having fairly easily damaged tweeters. How, I don't know.

...if the crossover points are too low, they receive too much power,
especially if one is running at higher spl's...

....guaranteed .....smoke!

david

Itms we've all missed the original question......I RUN with 63 milliWatts(my MP3 player)

I run with 2 Italian Greyhounds...they increase their power output when the spot a kitty cat! Great for those hills.

You think that Italian Greyhounds increase their power when they spot a kitty cat, try a pair of 85 pound German Sheppard/Siberian Huskies on for size. A pair of those could probably tow your motorbike from 0 to 60 faster than its own engine when they spot a kitty cat!!!

Love those types of dogs. The little guys are enough for me...having grown up in the Yukon. We could hook yours up to a sled for fun maybe they can even generate enough power on a tread mill to run your amps?

..... You're explanation has piqued my interest.......my C4000t exhibits tweeter noise with the amp I have hooked up on the Surround Sound circuit. ...

Is it possible that you are hearing the noise floor of the source? Noise will be more pronounced in the surround, or difference, channels than in the main or sum channels.

Possible......my front speakers are DAS7 Speakerlabs & they produce HUGE sound.....very clear & powerful....the smaller speakers in the rear may amplify the higher frequencies. I've noticed that even with the fronts turned off the back speakers don't put out a lot of sound even when the volume is turned up......with all speakers engaged I can feel the rears blending in, but I always thought the rears could or should be as loud as the fronts, perhaps not.
The only time the rears exhibit the clipping in the tweeters is when I'm watching a DVD & a higher pitched sound hits, such as a twig snapping, someone turning on a switch, snapping their fingers, dress shoes tapping across tile, sounds like that. I never noticed it on the fronts, just on the rears.
Like I said, maybe if I tried a different hookup for the speakers as outlined in the Owners Manual.....I was just curious as to what others were experiencing with their 4000t's Surround Modes.
I appreciate your help with this.......any & all suggestions are appreciated!!
Greg

Itms we've all missed the original question......I RUN with 63 milliWatts(my MP3 player)

I run with 2 Italian Greyhounds...they increase their power output when the spot a kitty cat! Great for those hills.

You think that Italian Greyhounds increase their power when they spot a kitty cat, try a pair of 85 pound German Sheppard/Siberian Huskies on for size. A pair of those could probably tow your motorbike from 0 to 60 faster than its own engine when they spot a kitty cat!!!

Love those types of dogs. The little guys are enough for me...having grown up in the Yukon. We could hook yours up to a sled for fun maybe they can even generate enough power on a tread mill to run your amps?

Trust me rolereversal, just one of those is enough to dislocate your shoulder when he sees a kitty cat!!!! I really should post a picture of him on here .....

......I always thought the rears could or should be as loud as the fronts, perhaps not.

The rears are probably WAY too high. A quick cheat to do it is at your listening position, have someone adjust the rear volume until you JUST can hear it, then have them turn it back down a tad.

When engaged and disengaged you should hear the soundstage widen and collapse, but should not hear the rears as a distinct source; they shouldn NOT draw attention to themselves.

Or you can buy an SPL meter and a CD/DVD with test tones on it for all 5 or 7 channels and set it up properly.

Tomstat, if those LEDs are spaced the same on your M-1.0t as on the M-400t, then they represent 0db, -5db, -10db, -20db, -40db and - infinity. Assuming 0db=200WPC, then the first one from the top would represent about 60WPC, the second one from the top represents 20WPC, the third one from the top represents 2WPC, the next one down 0.02WPC (1 fiftieth of a watt) and the last one represents next to no power being generated. you could approximately double those figures for the M1.5t.

I've never managed to get the top LED to even flicker on my M-400t and only had the -5db LED light up once or twice and that volume was close to deafening for me, so if you are using 200WPC on average on your M-1.5t, either your listening room is huge, your speakers are really inefficient, you like it really loud or you have gone deaf .... Or maybe I'm the weenie who doesn't like to listen as loud as you guys do .....

Dunno Obi, I don't know the math behind the music... or in my case, the movies. Am running Cerwin Vega DS-12s which are rated at 300per... one of my favorite movies is "Black Hawk Down" and the walls always shake but the lights never jump on the 1.5. Am also running 4 80wpc's for the higher range split off the M1.0 so that I get voice range sound front and back (2 channel separation.)

I am probably going deaf though, when I was in the military, I used to regularly hit the fourth and fifth LED on a 1.5 running 400wpc Cerwin Vega M-100s which shook the whole building and was reported to my commander on one occasion.

Sorry it took so long to reply, haven't had a lot of time for the board lately and I don't alway get to all the forums before I have to logoff.

Rich & Bill:
Thanks for the sage advice. I'll have a buddy of mine come over & help me adjust them.
Again, thanks for the help......
Greg

An interesting question was raised on another forum I hang out on and I thought that I would ask the same here to see what happens....

How many watts per channel do you run with?

Tube or SS?

Presently a simple but capable m-1.0t is handling the two-channel setup that I'm using. It's powering a pair of JBL L100s that I installed upgraded crossovers in recently and have to say that this is a good match. 200w/channel, and under a load I'm somewhat surprised at how well it performs. I'm happy, and that is all that counts.

But, there are more toys to buy. Not so much on the HT end of things, but I've got a desire for something extreme like a pair of JBL 4343s or some big Klipsch speakers. Then, of course, you need something big to drive them.

Does it ever end?

My mains (2 channel) use the TFM42 @ 375 per chan. They drive my ALS silvers nicely. They also drive my Infinity RS1.5's for HT. With an M500t (251)split with one channel driving the center and one driving a TL passive sub. The rears are handled by an M400t (201).

Works now but I am looking for a Sufire amp.

TFM 42 bridged mono for left speaker, TFM 45 bridged mono for right speaker into my Bose 901 V1 's = 2000 watts.

2.4 kilowatts

Martin Logan Prodigy 4 ohm nominal, 2 ohms at 20kHz driven by two modified Moscode 600's - 500+ watts/channel into 4 ohms, so 1000 watts per side, plus two ML depth subs, ea, with its own 200 watt built in amp.

System here Click on each item to see the thumb nail and on the thumb nail to enlarge the picture.

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl ... 200440547&

You will notice the Carver DTL #5 in the list.

Bruce

2.4 kilowatts

Martin Logan Prodigy 4 ohm nominal, 2 ohms at 20kHz driven by two modified Moscode 600's - 500+ watts/channel into 4 ohms, so 1000 watts per side, plus two ML depth subs, ea, with its own 200 watt built in amp.

System here Click on each item to see the thumb nail and on the thumb nail to enlarge the picture.

http://forum.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/fr.pl ... 200440547&

You will notice the Carver DTL #5 in the list.

Bruce

VERY nice system; I bet it sounds very detailed.

I don't mean to downplay your system, but you can't just double the power spec if you are halving the impedance. In a perfect world, yes, and there ARE some amps (few and far between) that have a power supply and output transistors that can handle it, but the limiting factors will be the PS ability to source continuous current and the output transistors' ability to throw it at the load.

I don't know the rail voltage on your amp, but at 1000W into 2R it would at a guess be expected to deliver 25 amps. It's 'easier' to get double power with half load when you go from 8R to 4R (still not likely) but 2R is a long row to hoe. e.g. the moscode 401HR is 200W at 8R and 300+ at 4R, not 400W and there's no spec for 2R.

I know I'm running BELOW 2-Ohms.... 1.8 static... probably down to 1 or less at decent volume.