Carver AV 64 Cathedral Amp- how to bridge

With the red pill in, I'm going to suggest this approach, as it seems to have been used in all the bridgeable Carver amps that are common ground. You hook the input only to the left input. The left red goes to the + on your speaker and the right red goes to the -. Mono button in.

Inverting amps typically don't have a switch, and you need to feed both inputs the same signal, and you hook the non inverted side (red) to the + on the speaker and the inverted side (black) to the -.

With the red pill in, I'm going to suggest this approach, as it seems to have been used in all the bridgeable Carver amps that are common ground. You hook the input only to the left input. The left red goes to the + on your speaker and the right red goes to the -. Mono button in.

Inverting amps typically don't have a switch, and you need to feed both inputs the same signal, and you hook the non inverted side (red) to the + on the speaker and the inverted side (black) to the -.

Yeah, tried this method and there is sound, but so low that i had to put my ear to the speaker

If you are sure you ONLY connected one input, I'd try to put it in the other input. If you connected BOTH inputs, they are probably cancelling each other out.

The beautiful People at Ritas send me a page from the manual




Click on image to open and zoom

So it looks like i have to put a jump between ch1 and ch2 and click Biamp

Being that this diagram only uses one input(L+R) and i wanted to use the amp to power my center and two rear surround backs i tested the following

- CH 1 and CH2 jumped
- RCAs L+R going into channel 1 and 2
- Pressed the Biamp button (whicH activates the bridging)
- left the MONO DEselected (as it sets it to 75 hz 18 db octive, which im
- assuming is to allow only low end for the sub)

Hooked up the volt meter and got 23 volts, which is the highest thus far
unpluging on of the rcas drops the volts to 8 volts, so im gonna have to get an Y plug that takes my center rca and splits it to two.

with the rca connected to Channels 3 and 4 their respective outputs are putting out 12volts - so these can power my surrondbacks

Comment, concerns, suggestions

I see what's going on but I still can't believe it was designed that way (especially since the switch could have done the bridging of the outputs without you running one external).

while testing just as the diagrams shows i got a blue spark around channel 2's red post (inside) i could see it through the grills

Channels 3 and 4 seem to be working fine.

Opened up and theres nothing visible wrong, caps look good, but then again i really dont know what to look for. ERRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR!

I guess it makes sense if you had the same set-up as the diagram, but even looking at that I'm confused or Brain dead or something! Maybe e-mail Rita again and ask if she could please diagram for you the correct set-up for what you want to do >power my center (bridged) and two rear surround.

I guess it makes sense if you had the same set-up as the diagram, but even looking at that I'm confused or Brain dead or something! Maybe e-mail Rita again and ask if she could please diagram for you the correct set-up for what you want to do >power my center (bridged) and two rear surround.

No sense in it now - channels 1 and 2 seem to be toast - nothings coming out of them now

Looks like my only option is to us the amps 3rd and 4th channel to power my center and forget about the rears

Ill be getting 60 watts to my top post and 60 watts to my bottom post on my Polk csi a6 center speaker.

Is it going to be a big difference compared to the advertised 110 watts that my Pioneer receiver say it pushes out per ?? ive already put my front towers on my tfm 55x

So I BIAMPed it with channels 3 and 4 (the two remaining ones) my center channel today (Polk audio CSIA4)

Im quite pleased with the unit
Definition is much better with the unit

I got the unit to about -7db on my pionner reciver and a little orange lite above channel 3/4 overload/clipping started to blink, turned it down to -9bd and it went away.

During regular tv watching its usually around 28db, so its plenty loud.

The weird thing that is happening now is that the ch1/2ch overload/clipping is a solid orange. Whats weird is that its not being used.

Sound has not changed at all????

IMO, just drive your center channel with a bridged M-1.5t and put this whole thing to bed

And you won't need to worry about clipping, because by that point, you either won't have a center channel speaker left or you'll be more concerned with the weird ringing in your ear

Art, the M1.5t is not a bridgeable amp.

Art, the M1.5t if not a bridgeable amp.

You can have all the amp's power diverted to one channel with the M-1.5t.

Art

Art, the M1.5t if not a bridgeable amp.

You can have all the amp's power diverted to one channel with the M-1.5t.

Art

Incorrect. UP TO 750 watts can be directed to one channel, as long as the total output doesn't exceed 1200 watts. I'm pretty sure it doesn't sound so good at that level, though~

Yeah, while the entire power supply is available, the output devices will limit the output.