Upgrading AL-III Subs

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Toy Maker
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Re: Upgrading AL-III Subs

Post by Toy Maker » Tue Jan 05, 2010 4:51 pm

frankieD wrote:
TNRabbit wrote:Image

This is the setup I use in my truck.
Gary, maybe I'm not reading this right but in your diagrams the top one labeled "Series/parallel" is not series at all. It is a straight parallel connection. Both + terminals connected together, ditto - terminals.

In the second diagram you have direct shorts with both + & - ternminals connected together.

So my question is WTF?
Yes it is... the 2 voice coils are being run in series in each driver... and then the 2 driver are being run parallel to the amp.

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Re: Upgrading AL-III Subs

Post by frankieD » Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:04 pm

Toy Maker wrote:
frankieD wrote:
TNRabbit wrote:Image

This is the setup I use in my truck.
Gary, maybe I'm not reading this right but in your diagrams the top one labeled "Series/parallel" is not series at all. It is a straight parallel connection. Both + terminals connected together, ditto - terminals.

In the second diagram you have direct shorts with both + & - ternminals connected together.

So my question is WTF?
Yes it is... the 2 voice coils are being run in series in each driver... and then the 2 driver are being run parallel to the amp.

Now I see it. I didn't realize there were 2 voice coils (+ & -) on each sdie.

Thank you Lucy, nobody ever splain it to me like that!

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Re: Upgrading AL-III Subs

Post by BillD » Tue Jan 05, 2010 5:43 pm

The first one just bridges the speaker, like putting straps on. It puts the twi voice coils in SERIES. I wouldn't have drawn it that way. I just would have had a little jumper between the + and - at the top and bottom of each speaker. THe way it's drawn, it looks like one of the voice coils is shorted.
It should sound like it isn't there!
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Re: Upgrading AL-III Subs

Post by TNRabbit » Wed Jan 06, 2010 5:32 am

Toy Maker wrote:
frankieD wrote:
TNRabbit wrote:Image

This is the setup I use in my truck.
Gary, maybe I'm not reading this right but in your diagrams the top one labeled "Series/parallel" is not series at all. It is a straight parallel connection. Both + terminals connected together, ditto - terminals.

In the second diagram you have direct shorts with both + & - ternminals connected together.

So my question is WTF?
Yes it is... the 2 voice coils are being run in series in each driver... and then the 2 driver are being run parallel to the amp.
What he said..
TNRabbit
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From FrankieD's lips to your ears: Sunfire - a quiet box of endless power.

Sunfire TG-IV/400~7 Amp
Carver SD/A-360 CDP
Benchmark DAC-1
Sony SACD/DVD-A
Active bi-amp: Ashly XR-1001 & 2 Rane PEQ-15s
Main: HotRodded AL-IIIs
Sub: Klipsch RT-12d
Center: Sunfire CRS-3c
Surround: Sunfire CRS-3 (x 2)

OconeeOrange wrote:"Gary likes to play it 'loud' as do I. His system begs you turn it up until you die"

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Re: Upgrading AL-III Subs

Post by angelod307 » Wed Aug 18, 2010 12:29 am

wow. i did this to my ribbons back in 1993, with jl's in one set and oz audio's in another set. at the time, they had too much of a muddy sound to them, and the replacement woofers thinned them out in the 80-200hz area. well, now in 2010, i swapped them out and went back to a paper driver as the jl's and oz woofer lacked the mid-bass that the original woofers have. as it turns out, now with the third set of ribbons with the original woofers to compare against, the quantum audio sub woofers i swapped the jl's and oz's sound more like the original eminence drivers bob used, but with a fuller, more body if you will sound. the w3's , w6's ' w-whatever will definetly have a sub sound to them and will lack some of that midbass punch. as a car audio guy that has sold them almost since they came on the audio scene lacking a year or so. funny though how what was once a god awfull sounding woofer (original) in my last home with concrete floors and the other set in a huge room with oak floors, so they were swapped out, only to be swapped out again because they did not sound right in my current home with carpeted floors on trusses.(3-4' crawl space under the house). the carpet has damped some of the sound to say the least. i am also one of those guys who think that paper drivers have a nicer/warmer sound as compared to plastic drivers. plastic drivers are great in subwoofer applications in a car were the climate changes by season. also i am not saying that plastic drivers don't sound good, because they do. anyway, the next mod i would think for those jl's would be doing active crossovers and multi band eq's like the rabbit did. bet they sound awesome with a high/huge sense of openess, effortless sound.
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Re: Upgrading AL-III Subs

Post by angelod307 » Wed Aug 18, 2010 12:42 am

and oh yeah, back in the early 1990's, dual woofers were the rage as one could have two part numbers with only one woofer. you could use a single woofer on a amp that would not do stereo/mono operation at the same time. that is were rockford fosgate really changed the game along with there bass and treble controls on the amps. cost was more, but you had to stock less product. 2 woofers covered 4 models if they were dvc. most being dual 2 ohm and then dual 4 ohm. soon there after jl audio did the dual 6 ohm. at the time the most common amps would bridge at 4 ohms and with jl's dual 6 ohm drivers, you could series/parallel them so you could do three woofers were others did 1,2,4,8 and so on. yes there were at the time high current amps that would go to 1/4 ohm per channel, but they were very pricey. so 4 ohms bridged on a 2 channel amp was the most popular by far. also, as another tid bit, jl really did not have a superior product when they came out, they had superior training on what size boxes to use with their woofers as they would make dealers buy the big ring binder application guide for several hundred dollars. in the early days of car audio, during the gold rush years when people were giving dealers ungodly amounts, most dealers lacked the knowledge of box building. personally, svc woofers are preferable to me over dvc ran in series, but that is for another day to chat about.
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Re: Upgrading AL-III Subs

Post by TNRabbit » Wed Jun 22, 2011 12:24 pm

James, did you every swap out the W6's for W3's in Alex's AL-IIIs?
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From FrankieD's lips to your ears: Sunfire - a quiet box of endless power.

Sunfire TG-IV/400~7 Amp
Carver SD/A-360 CDP
Benchmark DAC-1
Sony SACD/DVD-A
Active bi-amp: Ashly XR-1001 & 2 Rane PEQ-15s
Main: HotRodded AL-IIIs
Sub: Klipsch RT-12d
Center: Sunfire CRS-3c
Surround: Sunfire CRS-3 (x 2)

OconeeOrange wrote:"Gary likes to play it 'loud' as do I. His system begs you turn it up until you die"

RIP WIlliam B. Dibble, 1948-2012. I'll miss you my friend.

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Re: Upgrading AL-III Subs

Post by Toy Maker » Wed Jun 22, 2011 1:35 pm

Not yet... Still waiting for a set to pop up on CL

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Re: Upgrading AL-III Subs

Post by TNRabbit » Thu Jun 23, 2011 3:46 am

James/Alex: how were the screw holes in the wood on these? mine were pretty boogered up. I end up filling them with epoxy & stuffing in toothpicks then redrilling.

I just bought these to replace the screws...think I'll install before CF....
Image

Got stainless steel hex head bolts to go with them....
TNRabbit
Image

From FrankieD's lips to your ears: Sunfire - a quiet box of endless power.

Sunfire TG-IV/400~7 Amp
Carver SD/A-360 CDP
Benchmark DAC-1
Sony SACD/DVD-A
Active bi-amp: Ashly XR-1001 & 2 Rane PEQ-15s
Main: HotRodded AL-IIIs
Sub: Klipsch RT-12d
Center: Sunfire CRS-3c
Surround: Sunfire CRS-3 (x 2)

OconeeOrange wrote:"Gary likes to play it 'loud' as do I. His system begs you turn it up until you die"

RIP WIlliam B. Dibble, 1948-2012. I'll miss you my friend.

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Re: Upgrading AL-III Subs

Post by Toy Maker » Thu Jun 23, 2011 9:15 am

Perdy !!!! I likes stainless =D>

Our holes were fine.

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Re: Upgrading AL-III Subs

Post by angelod307 » Fri Jun 24, 2011 9:46 pm

he said holes.huh.huh.
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Re: Upgrading AL-III Subs

Post by Toy Maker » Sat Jun 25, 2011 6:39 am

Image

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