Cost to refurb a M1.0t

Title says it all. Looking to find out how much I need to re-cap, add new binding posts, and fix the turn off thump. I am NOT interested in doing the MKII mod as I dont need any more power than the amp has standard since my LSi's are 4 ohms. I have NO SKILLS at all with regards to soldering so would need to send it to a shop.

Have had a TON of trouble getting ahold of the guys at Vintage Hi-Fi and dont know the info for either Rolland's or Bob's new shop....

Hoping one of you here might be able to get me the info I need on how much its gonna cost so I can start saving and if need be selling some gear....

Used Rolland in the past for a complete refurb on a TFM-45 I gave my son. Very happy with refurb. Others have used Bob's shop and were also very happy.

Rolland contact:

Carver Audio Repair Center
Hi-Tech Audio Ltd.
2125 SW 19th St.
Gresham Oregon 97080
503-618-7605 Fax 503-674-8593
http://www.carveraudiorepair.com


Bob's shop contact:

http://www.bobcarveraudiorepair.com/ind ... -employees

Thanks Don, I sent him an email.

Thanks Don, I sent him an email.

You'll get a quicker response if you call him sometime tomorrow~

By the end of the day its going to cost you $400+ after shipping and upgrades to go through that amp.

By the end of the day its going to cost you $400+ after shipping and upgrades to go through that amp.

Grr.. Was hoping it wouldn't be that much. I had to take it out for now. There was getting to be too much static in the left channel for me to ignore.

Will troubleshoot later if I can.

If Ed sent you a functional unit, my guess is there is an interconnect or connection problem somewhere.

If Ed sent you a functional unit, my guess is there is an interconnect or connection problem somewhere.

I was thinking the same thing... how'd you end up connecting the speaker wires?

If Ed sent you a functional unit, my guess is there is an interconnect or connection problem somewhere.

I was thinking the same thing... how'd you end up connecting the speaker wires?

Yeah, I am not assuming its a faulty unit at this point, more that I missed something somewhere. I used some Audioquest FLX 14/4 wire I had on hand. I used 2 14 gauge strands per connector which may be the problem. The strands were pretty thick and had trouble going in, but in the end it went in .

I used MIT EXp1 interconnects and giggled them around to make sure they were in tight (they were) and the sound didn't get better. It actually got worse the tighter I tightened down the FLX wire on that one channel. The other channel worked perfectly.

I removed my custom jumpers on that speaker and used the stock jumpers but that wasn't it either.

I am going to try just some regular 14 gauge wire I have later tomorrow, I just didn't want to keep messing with it today.

I am thinking thats probably what it is. Will let you know. Either way the unit will eventually need a re-cap, the turn off thump fixed and new binding posts so I can use more types of connectors.

If it got worse as you tightened it, I'm betting a broken solder joint on that RCA internally.

If it got worse as you tightened it, I'm betting a broken solder joint on that RCA internally.

We will see. I got some regular 14 gauge Monoprice speaker wire and have that connected right now to test. Watching TV in stereo and will report back if its still having issues later.

Crackling and static would MOST LIKELY be in the input side, not the output side, of the amp.

That's why I say RCA input. Can't imagine the issue you're having with speaker wire would cause that kind of thing....

Crackling and static would MOST LIKELY be in the input side, not the output side, of the amp.

That's why I say RCA input. Can't imagine the issue you're having with speaker wire would cause that kind of thing....

Well I just took apart and took pics of the input board for the RCA's. Take a look and see if you see anything obvious. This album contains a bunch of pics of the internals as well....

http://s715.photobucket.com/albums/ww15 ... er%20M10t/

I see some what look like some burn marks on the back of some of the joints on the input board... could that be the issue?

Yep; it was 100% when sent...just the turn off thump that I disclosed (which can be minimized by turning clear down the source volume before turning BOTH off(via a power strip/conditioner or in my case I used the switched outlet on the MXR-150 to power the amp so when you turnoff the pre, the amp turns off at the same time). This works about 2/3 of the time; otherwise you get a "thump").

Easy to tell if it's the input signal or not ....just reverse the inputs and see if the static moves to the right channel...if so, then the static is in the input signal.

"I see some what look like some burn marks on the back of some of the joints on the input board... could that be the issue?"

That can't be it...."burn marks" could not have been caused by shipping and since there was no static prior to shipping, this can't be the problem. Most likely it's source related or speaker related.....switch them as well to see if the problem moves to that channel.

Most likely it's source related or speaker related.....switch them as well to see if the problem moves to that channel.

Well I tried different sources, Uverse DVR, Xbox 360, and my blu-ray player. The static issue happened with the DVR and blu-ray player. I don't remember if I heard it with the 360 in the loop. I did not try switching out IC's. I also connected the amp direct to the wall as well as through my APC H15 with the same results. I have one other set of speakers I can try, but the current speakers don't produce the same issue when connected to my AV-705x so I am kinda at a stand still here with what to try.

I can try switching what channel its connected to on my Integra, but doubt that will fix it as well, since as stated the Integra doesnt produce these results with my other Carver amp.

Anyone else have any thoughts?