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Carver Speaker Discussions and Questions
There were a few Plats made with dual inputs, for easy bi-amping. I trust yours is not that type, or if it is it has the jumpers properly in place.
Beyond that, aside from the big bass control (which you tried bypassing to no avail) there are just two parts in the crossover that have anything to do with the woofers. They are C1 and L1. If C1 is dying (and at this age it due to be) it will probably look just fine, but inside it could well be garbage. It's the biggest cap in there - you can't miss it. If you disconnect one side of it (clip either lead) and the four woofers take off and pour out bass, that's your problem. It's hard to imagine it could be anything else this side of freaky. Of course, without C1 in the circuit the woofers will also pour forth higher frequencies that you don't want them to reproduce. That's why it's in there - to eliminate highs from the woofers. But if through old age it goes way off value or simply turns into more of a resistor than a capacitor, then things go straight to hell with the bass.
Bob spent a lot of time on these crossovers (which are also frequency shaping, of course), to get the response really perfect. But the bass part is very simple. Note the 8 ohm, 100 watt variable resistor between the woofers and ground it's a real moose of a pot. That and paired caps and the two coils are the whole works, as far as the woofers go.
Talmadge, this Mk IV version is probably what you have, so again I have to correct myself a bit. Two big caps, working together, instead of one huge one. Those are what needs testing. And two coils in series with the + input wire. That's all there is to it.
(pair of) SILVER-7 TUBE AMPs
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talmadge3 wrote:no problem. I'm probably going to have the crossovers rebuilt.
Talk with Tom at VHoP. He's already rebuilt several Carver crossovers, modded some too. They sound great modded.
and Advent, Infinity, and a bunch more.
Its going to be used equipment when I sell it, so it may as well be used equipment when I buy it.
Tim deParavicini's E.A.R. Yoshino V20 Integrated Amplifier, Fosgate Signature Phono pre, Lucas Labs 12B4/OD3 LineStage, No. 50 and 51 Carverfest Tube amps, Hammond M3 tube amp, Ariston RD-40 Turntable w/ Linn Basik LSV tonearn, Grado Statement Master1 cartridge, Carver TX-8 & 11 tuners, Carver TD-12, Tascam CC-222mkII CD recorder, DBX-3BX & 200xg & 120x, CarverAudio ALV prototypes, Alesis Studio One loudspeakers, Energy Reference 22 Connoisseur, Cambridge Audio Model 8s, The Carver Research DarkStar Sub and Stax Earspeakers.
THIS SPACE FOR RENT...helping the blind to hear, one valve at a time
PS Audio DL-III DAC
Klipsch KP 250 II's
Klipsch RC 7
Klipsch KW-120 (2)
talmadge3 wrote:If I were to use two amps and an active or electronic crossover would I simply cross them over at 100hz ? 24db filter?
Now I also have a clearwater electronic xover that was made specifically for the plats and biamp.
I would highly recommend closer to 150, for higher power applications, but for say a hundred or so watts, no problem . Elsewhere there are a explanation of the passive x-over lay out and what to expect if you use a two way and eq for the purpose of the notch filters used.
Did he ever do the 9 volt battery test to see if all 4 woofers are still connected?
Which plats are these?
Flat honeycomb or cone?
Sunfire: Cinema Grand Sig 400 Seven x2
Rane: RPM88 26Z x3
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